Denim is a fabric that has been a part of casual clothing for centuries. Although denim was originated from a French city, Serge De Nimes, people from all over the world are more than indulged in sewing denim—and marketing it in retail and wholesale businesses.
But today, I won’t talk about the denim business; this article will let you know an easy way to sew your own denim at home. Usually, people don’t consider denim as a home-sew fabric and ask the same question: how to sew denim at home? That is because denim is thicker and more rugged than other ordinary casual materials. But nothing is impossible. You just need to be familiar with tips and tricks about how to sew denim at home—those tricks would make denim very easy to sew.
Firstly, make sure that the denim you are using for your project is authentic. Although jeans have given denim its popular identity, people can get fooled into buying another similar fabric labeled as denim. Denim, in reality, is made of cotton twill—which is 100% cotton—and is very comfortable to wear.
How to Sew Denim Pants?
Now, let’s start learning how to sew denim conveniently at home. Although denim is used to make jackets, shirts, and whatnot, we will be focusing on how to sew denim pants.
STEP 1: Cutting Out Front and Back of the Denim Pants
Cutting out denim is a relatively hard step—one wrong slip of the scissors, and your project gets wasted. Therefore, you must be very careful while cutting out pieces. From the wrong side of the fabric, cut out front pieces of the pants. Then do the same for back pieces.
Pieces should be cut according to your size—length, width, and so on. The original denim is stretchy, so give the fabric space to stretch according to your body when you cut it. Check Out 10 Best Inexpensive Sewing Machine Reviews.
STEP 2: Cutting Out the Waistband
Waistband refers to the part of the pants where you put elastic—or not if you prefer—and where the belt loops and a button is located—right above the zip.
Cutting out the waistband is as crucial as Step 1. You need to carefully cut out two pieces of a waistband (for front and back) from the wrong side of the fabric. Cut out both the waistbands separately because the sizes differ minorly. The back piece of the waistband should be cut slightly shorter (approximately 1″) because of the narrow rear end wide hips.
Though if you do not have wider back skin and prefer to keep lengths of both waistbands equal, you may do so.
STEP 3: Cutting Out the Pockets
You would obviously want pockets in your pants. We will only be focusing on the side pockets—not the back ones. For pockets, cut out the pieces at least 3-inch lengthy. Three inches is considerably enough depth for a pocket—you can extend if you want to.
Cut out the pocket lining of the pants. The lining can be cut out as the same denim material—it would look classy. You can also use muslin (buckram).
STEP 4: Interfacing
If you aim at sewing a quality, posh-looking pants, interfacing is an important step. Interfacing is a fabric that is stitched to the wrong, unseen side of the fabric to make it more rigid. Cut out two waistband-size pieces from interfacing. This interface will be cut from muslin (buckram), also known as fusible interfacing.
The fusible side of the waistband interfacing should be up because the piece will be ironed (in order to make it stick) from the wrong side of the interfacing.
You can use other fabric instead of fusible if you wish to stitch rather than iron. Interfacing also depends on material to material (in accordance with the weight of the material).
The fusible (ironable) side of the interfacing will be placed on the wrong side of the waistband pieces. Next, trim the interfacing around 1/8-inch and iron it to the waistband.
STEP 5: Stitching the Pockets
To start with the pockets, pin the wrong side of the pocket lining (that you cut out in Step 3) to the jeans’ front side—do that for both sides. Start stitching the pocket lining to the edge of the front pieces.
Serge the edge you have sewed – or trim the seam allowance by ¼-inch. Then, finish the seam edges the way you want. Now is the time to turn the pocket lining to the inside. You have to press it firmly, then topstitch the side edges of the front you just turned inside.
Now, align the front piece of the pocket to the pocket lining on the unseen side of the front piece of the pants. Pin them. Stitch the edges of the pocket lining to side-front.
Pin the outer side edge of the pocket cut to the garment on the right side of the front section of the pants. Next, you have to pin up the top edge of the pocket piece to the pants. Baste the top edge off from the left side of the pocket within the seam allowance, so it is concealed. Next, baste the side edge of the pocket to the end of the pocket to the pocket lining by the help of a 3/8-inch seam.
STEP 6: Stitching the Pants
Mark the dart on the back pants piece and make sure that both sides of the outer edges meet (where you will stitch). Sew from the top down to the almost end of the dart.
Lift the presser foot when you get to the almost end and leave enough length to tie the thread knot at least twice. Tie the ends off.
Next, pin the back piece to the front piece at the inner leg only and stitch. Serge the thread. Press that serged seam on the unseen side of the inner leg down. Now, press the outer seam on the right side of the inner side of the pants leg down. Edge-stitch the inner pant leg seam.
Press the inner side of the pants’ leg seam (that you just stitched).
Repeat this process for the other leg of the pant—starting with marking the dart and finishing at this step.
STEP 7: Sewing the Crotch Area
Pin both leg pieces of the pants together from the crotch area and sew the crotch seam with reinforced stitching. That can be done by stitching ¼-inch from the original seam allowance near the garment’s edge. Now serge near the reinforced seam. And finish as desired.
Next, turn the pants and stitch backside to the front.
STEP 8: Hemming the Pants’ Legs
Hemming the legs is essential to give your pants a finished, ready look. First, serge the lower legs at the bottom and turn the hem edge under the inside with a ¼-inch margin. Press it firmly, and tun this edge once more with 1 or 1.5-inch margin—then pin it.
Next, you will have to sew this seam—it should be firmly pressed when you do that and after you have done it.
STEP 9: Sewing the Waistband
Remember the waistbands we cut in Step 2? It is time to sew them now. Pin and sew front and back waistbands together and serge. The seam of the waistbands must match the seam of the pants.
Turn out the waistbands of the wrong side of the pants and press down the seams. Now is the time to use the interfacing: stick it with the heated iron—but remember to set the heat moderate otherwise, it might melt.
Similar to the pockets, pin the wrong side of the waistband cut-piece to the right side of the pants and sew carefully from the edges before serge. Press the serge where one edge of the was attached to the pants. Next, fold the open edge of the waistband down to meet the seam—check the alignment of the curves—then open the fold and serge the top edge.
STEP 10: Finishing Up
Now, after finishing the waistband, you can install loops on your pant for belts. However, if you prefer elastic, it can be sewn inside the waistband fold—and you will have to leave a place to insert elastic inside the waistband folds. Cut the desired length and leave enough room to stretch.
After that, stitch the waistbands properly and close all the openings. Make sure to do it neatly, and the seam of sewn elastic must match with the seam of the pants and waistbands. If you prefer elastic, then only after inserting into the waistbands you can sew the waistbands to the pants.
Now you know how to sew denim pants at home with your ordinary sewing machine. To be fair, sewing denim is not rocket science; just follow all the steps, tips, and tricks, and it will be convenient for you.
If you are not sure about sewing denim for the first time, try to sew something else with denim and try to be familiar with the fabric. We hope this step-by-step guide was helpful to you. Good luck with your denim project!
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